My walk seemed endless. And I was getting farther from the center of town and therefore it seemed more and more improbable that I would reach my desired destination.
I was looking for the "TI". The Tourist Information bureau. The first thing you seek in a new town you're visiting. I didn't find one in Chernivtsi. I wasn't surprised as I thought I had read that Lviv is unusual in Ukraine for having a TI. And the woman at the hotel reception desk told me they didn't have one in this city.
But I had seen a poster on the main square for a smartphone walking tour app which referred to a tourist office on the square. So I went into the town hall building in the center of square to inquire. The young woman didn't speak much English but we were able to communicate and she drew me a nice map on a scrap of paper with a picture of blocks, a park, the street name and the number 67.
It was a straight shot down the road leading away from the square. No turns. No possibility to get lost. And yes with each succeeding block I was getting farther from the central square - the historic district and it was more and more commercial and there was nothing touristic looking about it.
But the street numbers were gradually increasing as I walked and eventually I'd reach 67. The farther I walked the more I wanted to at least get to the address before I turned back so at least it wouldn't be that I would have reached my goal if I'd gone just that little bit more.
And of course that little bit more continued on and on. And then I saw the trees and the park the young woman had drawn on the map. And then the big number 67 on the side of the building. Yet if you were trying to hide a TI office there would be no better location. So far from the historic district and tourist area.
I opened the door into the building. There was a small glassed in reception area to the right up a small staircase in which a woman was sitting. But, no indication of a TI. No signs of any kind. So I decided to head back to town.
But, just as I began to turn around the woman asked what I was looking for and I told her and she indicated I should come up the stairs and go down the hall.The unmarked door at the end of the hall was shut, but I opened it and a nice young guy was sitting at a desk with some brochure stands. In the small quiet room. Alone.
It was exactly like when you wake up and say "Oh that was just a dream" which explains the weird series of improbable events.
In answer to my question he explained that they had had a dispute with the city and had to leave their quarters in the city hall on the main square where of course they should have been.
His English was excellent. It was nice to have a real conversation. I hadn't had one since Lviv. because of the language difference. We were able to talk about conditions and developments here in Ukraine.
I think he too was happy to have someone to talk to. Sitting all alone in his office day after day. He was eager to assist and perfect for the job he is in, but not its location. His office was part of a non profit. They hope to get additional support and return to the town center.
In Ukraine, I get the feeling that much of the initiative comes from non profits. Probably from the EU. To me it seems a no brainer for the city to have a tourist office. The first thing I'd initiate were I responsible for improving the local economy. Such an untapped resource!
Beautiful buildings, parks, historic sites, a concert hall, churches, museums, and art galleries. A great place to wander or just kick back.
He suggested my going to Yaremche. Just an hour and a half by bus into the Carpathian Mountains. An appealing idea. I had ridden through the area by train last spring on my five hour train ride from Muckachevo to Lviv and thought it beautiful.
Magical. Small rolling mountains with white water streams gushing through narrow valleys with white puffy clouds up above. Known as "The Last Wilderness in Europe".
In answer to my request he gave me his phone number. I thought him a valuable resource to learn more about this city and country. He volunteered that I should call him with any questions I had. And he demurred when I asked how many tourists he saw in a day. I think he would be glad to have me call for further counsel. Or anyone for that matter.
I walked back into town and went to the ATM. In the midst of my transaction it switched from English to Ukrainian and refused to give me money without an intelligible (to me at least) explanation.
I went to another ATM. It gave me money but swallowed my debit card. And only gave it back with great reluctance after prodding by me and a young woman who came to my aide.
Then I went to the concert hall to get a ticket. The most I'd ever paid 250 hryvnia. Luckily I looked closely at the ticket and saw it was for the wrong performance (not classical) and the wrong date. I had made clear to the lady in the ticket booth that I wanted a ticket for tomorrow night's performance. In perfect Ukrainian. She just couldn't get it. Until two guys came by and made it clear using the same words and pronunciation. We switched tickets and the price was the more normal just 60 hryvnia.
Interesting how things go wrong in series.
I thought about going into the Carpathians like the tourism guy suggested and decided it was one of those things you would be glad you did. Not to be missed. Perhaps an opportunity that comes only once in a lifetime of other demands and limited time. So far from home.
And yet almost 4 hours on 2 buses and still getting over my cough and not really having done justice to this city and having but two days left here, I decided not to go.
Relaxing with much to see and do here on this sunny day I'm glad I did.
I wandered a bit and visited a church.
And a former church which, now a museum with beautiful paintings of the Carpathian mountains, fields, streams and sky.
The best way for me now to enjoy the Carpathians. This time.
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